Below are some cursory notes on the design of this website and the tools I've used to create it.
By default, this website is typeset in the font your operating system uses for its user interface. On a Mac, this is San Francisco; on Windows, Segoe UI; etc. However, you may, at your choosing, elect to view this website typeset in Vollkorn, my current favourite serif font, by using the selector at the bottom of the page.
In general, free fonts of high quality can be hard to find. Another one that I quite like is EB Garamond. Both fonts I have mentioned are available on Google Fonts.
The software into which I am typing these very words and which will transform them into glorious hypertext is called Statamic. It's a content management system – analogous to WordPress, more or less; the main difference is that it's easier and more fun to extend and customize.
I used to use various static site generators to turn my prose into HTML – I should set down my thoughts on them all someday. But I gave them all up in favour of a graphical editing interface, and never looked back.
I remain fond of Neocities, and would recommend it as the easiest to use and least intimidating of all the methods of putting hypertext on the internet. They even have an in-browser HTML editor, so you don't have to figure out how to upload stuff. Of course Netlify and services like it offer much more control over how your site is served.
I use GoatCounter to show me some basic statistics about visits to the website: how many visits occur on each day for each page, which countries visitors come from, and so on. GoatCounter is not capable of tracking individual visitors across multiple visits, nor of doing any kind of data analysis – it's just a fancy hit counter, and probably doesn't deserve to be called ‘analytics’. Recently I've also been trying out Cloudflare Analytics, which is essentially the same thing.